CURTAIN ROD HARDWARE

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CURTAIN ROD HARDWARE : Make fold-over tabs of the same fabric as the binding of the Wuh (make atube of the fabric by sewing a 3 1/2" strip closed and turning itright-side out. Press the tibe flat, with the seam in the middle ofwhat will be the "back" of the tabs. Whack 5" lengths out of theflattened tube of fabric. Double them over, with the seam to the insideof the "double" and hand-stitch both ends (you don't have to be careful-- this is on the BACK; and you don't have to finish the ends of thetabs, either, unless you're absolutely certifiably insane, or are gonnaenter this into a show ... which might also qualify in the "certifiable"category) to the back of the binding, on the top of the Wuh.Level your hanging-rod (I used finishing nails, the ones with no headsto speak of, just hammered into the dry-wall in the office). Slip the"dooker" off the rod and thread the tabs (I used 5 of them, across thetop) onto the rod. Slip the dooker back on, and set the rod on thenails.

CURTAIN ROD HARDWARE : I like it! How d'ya keep the tines from bending? Do you *hammer* the fork into the wall?Frugal idea: buy ornate finials (rod ends) @ lower-price dept. stores, and screw them onto dowels thatare painted the same color as the finials, instead of buying the separate (and expensive) matching metalcurtain rod. May not work for really long curtain rods (dowels'll bow in the middle if you don't supportthem).--Heather Pisani-Kristl... expressing her own opinions Please excuse my peculiar shorthand; I'm recovering from a typing-related injury.You use a screw between the fork tines. Or at least that's how I sawit done, Merry might have seen something different.You can get rod supports in hardware stores - basically they'relongish hooks that screw into the window casing approximately wherethe middle of the rod is. Conventional rods will sag in the middle ifoverlong too. Some very large windows like picture windows orone-right-next-to-another windows (I know there's a "real" name forthose but I can't remember) may need two or three of the rod supportseven just to hang lightweight sheers or sheets.

CURTAIN ROD HARDWARE : It looked to me like they just put screws between the tines. Merry Stahel, Editor, CALICO TRAILSMechanicsburg, Pennsylvania - wish it was the West!!You can put them up at the top corners of the window frame to hold avalance-type thing, too.Just make sure that if you're using tarnishable materials, spray themwith polyurethane or some other kind of sealant to keep them fromtarnishing. It's a PITA to be taking them down every couple of monthsto polish them, and there's a point where tarnish simply becomes uglyinstead of charming.I'm lucky - I live on the 3rd floor of a building surrounded by2-story buildings, so using curtains for privacy really isn't as muchof an issue for us. We skipped curtains entirely except in the kitchen(where the afternoon sun can get pretty blinding just when I'm tryingto cook) where we were able to use scavenged metal curtain rods andold sheets. While using curtains in the cooler parts of our apartmentmight help insulate further, there would be a tradeoff in higherelectric bills because we would not have the benefit of as muchnatural light. (Also, given that the walls are basically uninsulated -it's an old building - it's doubtful that putting up insulatingcurtains would make much of a difference anyway. So I just enjoy thelight.) For the "decoration" aspect of curtains, I am struggling tokeep hanging plants alive... my spider plant seems to like itseast-facing window and growing like crazy, but my Swedish ivy isnowhere near as happy so I may have to move it to my west-facingoffice and find something else that likes morning light for the livingroom.

CURTAIN ROD HARDWARE : Here's my "Martha-Stewart-on -acid" decorating tip...it's not metal, but itlooks very coolI had my aborist sister cut down a white birch sapling...Cut to fit width ofwindow and there you have it...looks kind of of rustic-country looking...youcan leave as is, or drape with lots of pale green tulle (way cheap, speciallyif you scavenge old bridesmaid dresses)I've seen this in a magazine with a gauzy white material - it actuallydoes look very nice...gives the impression of spring and a gentlebreeze blowing. Very pretty.Merry Stahel, Editor, CALICO TRAILSMechanicsburg, Pennsylvania - wish it was the West!!I've seen similar suggestions on the Home & Garden Network, and all ofthe ideas are quite charming.For curtain rods, I have also seen copper plumbing pipe. Cut to therequired length, and use a plumbing end-cap thingie on each end. I wouldimagine that you could also use a carved wooden thing on each end, aswell. Just paint with a copper paint and rough it up a bit withsandpaper.

CURTAIN ROD HARDWARE : Depending on the width of the window, how about a broomstick, without the broomof course. They even come in colors.I just got my rods at Big Lots for $4 each. I hate the color on the endpieces so I plan to paint them with left over fake gold paint.If you want to try "metalizing" (new word ) a wooden dowel, butdon't like the lumber yard prices of the dowels....hunt around forold brooms, mops, etc., at garage sales. If the length isn't right,cut what you need and glue them together.I've seen finials made from golf balls, tennis balls and small,rubber balls - they were glued to the dowel and painted/gilded.One set was covered with fabric that had been decoupagedonto the balls and rod. Another had an interesting look withfabric. The tennis balls had been slit so they'd accept "bunched"fabric - the whole thing was quite flowery (not what you're after)and not my cuppa - but it *was* interesting..:)


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CURTAIN ROD HARDWARE